“You’re glowing!” are words every pregnant woman expects to hear. Some of us do, but many others keep waiting–in vain–for that pregnancy glow. That was more my side of the story.
I realized pregnancy would be associated with many uncomfortable, uncontrollable and inconvenient bodily changes. The weight gain of course, but also the morning sickness (more like around-the-clock nausea), fatigue, acid reflux, heartburn, constipation, water retention, sciatica, food aversions and stretch marks. But at least I would have luscious hair and glowing skin, right?
Wrong.
Societal expectations of pregnancy glow
There’s a myth that all expectant mothers enjoy radiant skin thanks to a combination of factors, including increased blood circulation and hormonal surges. But the same hormone changes can also cause a host of other skin and complexion related issues that are not so commonly talked about.
During my pregnancy, my hair was thicker than it ever was before. However, my skin was also more prone to acne, hyperpigmentation and scarring. I hadn’t had a pimple since I was 16, but 6-weeks in, my first pimple appeared on my left cheek. I confess. I picked it. And it left an aftermath of a brown scar on my cheek which lasted the entire year. Most pictures of me during my pregnancy have a visible spot that shocked me with its stubbornness.
As my skin and body underwent changes, I was handed a piece of paper with a list of ingredients to avoid. This meant meticulously checking the labels of every skincare product I owned as well as any potential replacements. Above all, I wanted skincare that would safely and effectively support me through these new symptoms.
Being a technologist, I turn to data when faced with uncertainty or conflicting information—not just Google search results or social media, but genuine scientific research. I delved into numerous scientific journal articles about skincare during pregnancy and in general. I realized my experience was a shared one and there were empirically true ways to ease the struggle.
Prevalence of Pregnancy Acne
According to a 2014 study, more than 40% of expectant women struggle with acne. That’s almost one in two women. Some of my friends have struggled with the most severe acne–and yet, the stereotype of radiance persists, failing the other half of the statistic.
Hormonal changes during pregnancy cause oil glands in the skin to become more active which is often the cause for the ‘pregnancy glow’. However, that boost in activity can also trigger and exacerbate acne. It is most common in the third trimester but can start to appear as soon as 6-weeks into the pregnancy and can last the entire term, only clearing up after the delivery.
During pregnancy, nodular acne is most common–these are pimples that run deep and are usually red and painful. To make things more complicated, most acne medications, acids and retinoids are off limits. The resulting inflammation causes dark spots or scarring which is also worse when pregnant.
Hyperpigmentation and the pregnancy mask
According to another study, 50 – 70% of pregnant women will get some form of melasma–i.e. brown patches on their cheeks, nose and forehead. This issue known as chloasma, or the “mask of pregnancy” is extremely common during pregnancy.
In addition to melasma, pregnancy related endocrinological changes also cause increased hyperpigmentation seen as linea nigra (that darkened vertical line across your belly), and general darkening across the body This is especially common in pregnant women who already have darker skin.
Endocrinological changes are linked to a temporary surge in melanin production which dissipates for most women after delivery but in some cases, it reduces but persists long after becoming a new skin concern.
Pregnancy hormones and their effects
Pregnancy is a well designed, rollercoaster of hormones that all play their defined roles. The most important are estrogen and progesterone, both secreted by the ovaries, and are considered the chief pregnancy hormones.
Increased estrogen
During pregnancy, a woman’s body produces more estrogen than at any other time in her life. This dramatic increase in estrogen serves several crucial purposes. It supports the formation of new blood vessels, which is essential for the increased blood flow needed during pregnancy. Estrogen also stimulates the growth of the uterus, allowing it to expand and accommodate the developing fetus. Furthermore, it enhances the transfer of nutrients from the mother to the fetus through the placenta. Perhaps most importantly, estrogen plays a vital role in the proper development of the fetus and its organs. This hormone’s increased production during pregnancy underscores its significance in ensuring a healthy gestation and fetal growth.
And that’s just for the baby! Estrogen also affects a woman’s own body during pregnancy. It stimulates the production of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, which can enhance the skin’s volume and appearance. However, the surge in estrogen can also lead to increased skin pigmentation and vascular changes. These changes may include the appearance of spider angiomas (small, spider-like veins just under the skin’s surface) and palmar erythema, a condition that causes redness in the palms of the hands.
Increased progesterone
Progesterone plays a crucial role in supporting a healthy pregnancy. It thickens the uterine lining, which helps a fertilized egg grow into an embryo and later a fetus. Additionally, progesterone aids in loosening the body’s ligaments and joints, preparing for childbirth.
However, progesterone also affects the skin, particularly by stimulating the production of sebum (oil) in skin glands. As progesterone levels increase during pregnancy, this often results in oilier skin. This excess oil can lead to clogged pores, potentially triggering acne breakouts. Many women also experience increased skin sensitivity during this time, which is another effect linked to the rise in progesterone levels.
The options for reclaiming a “pregnancy glow”
Getting pregnant took longer than I had expected it would. And as a result, from trying to conceive, through pregnancy and breastfeeding, I became intensely aware of everything I put in and on my body. This heightened vigilance lasted well beyond the nursing phase, forever changing my approach to my skin, personal care and my diet.
Navigating skincare during pregnancy became a challenge, with hormonal changes affecting my skin and strict limitations on product use. The lack of clear guidelines for safe skincare only added to the overwhelming nature of this new reality.
Expectant mothers are often split into two camps: those who meticulously research specific ingredients and use products across a variety of brands, and those who invest time upfront and then commit to the right skincare line. The latter group seeks brands with solid reputations, dermatologist backing, and proven results, all while avoiding ingredients contraindicated during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
Whichever approach you take, I always suggest the following steps.
6 steps for taking back control of your skin while pregnant
- Keep the skin clean and balanced: A cleanser is the most underrated of all skincare products. Arguably, all a skincare minimalist really needs is a good cleanser and sunscreen. The right cleanser will clean the skin of sweat, dirt, sunscreen and residual make-up, without drying it out. It should also be pH balanced to support the skin’s natural biome. And remember–even oily skin needs hydration.
- Use sunscreen: Exposure to the sun increases the symptoms of hyperpigmentation and melasma making it more important than ever to stay out of direct sun, wear a hat and apply (and reapply) a good sunscreen. Physical sunscreens with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are best as the jury is still out on the safety of chemical sunscreens.
- Employ clinically-proven ingredients to combat acne: Ingredients such as Niacinamide and Azelaic acid are supported by independent, unbiased, peer-reviewed clinical journals in their ability to fight acne, calm inflammation and increase hydration.
- Employ safe but potent antioxidants for brightening: Vitamin C and other non-Vitamin C antioxidants such as Oxyresveratrol block tyrosinase overactivity reducing the overproduction of melanin and easing symptoms such as acne scarring, hyperpigmentation and other melasma-like symptoms.
- Use a gentle exfoliant for cellular renewal: Introducing a carefully considered and formulated chemical exfoliant (my personal favorite is Lactic acid) can also supercharge a pregnancy routine addressing both acne and pigmentation challenges.
- Exercise care: Not every skincare ingredient is pregnancy-safe. It’s advised to avoid hydroquinone, retinoids, salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and essential oils. (This isn’t an exhaustive list!) Additionally, skin concerns can also be triggered by some prenatal vitamins and excessive biotin or B12 consumption. Be sure to consult with your doctor to better understand which ingredients may or may not be right for you.
As I reflect upon my pregnancies, what was hardest about my skincare struggle was the expectation that society (and I) put on myself that I would glow. The barrage of (sometimes conflicting) information, especially in my first pregnancy – what I should do, not do, eat, not eat, apply or avoid was frustrating and defeating at times. Surging hormones amplified every emotion, making each challenge feel insurmountable and making me feel alone.
Yet now, with my beautiful children beside me, I realize those moments were intense but fleeting–paling in comparison to the joy they’ve brought into my life. It’s that contentment that makes me truly glow from the inside out.
